Interfacing

WHAT IS INTERFACING?

Interfacing is a fabric treated with stiffener and is used to stiffen pieces of fabric. Interfacing gives body, strength, and firmness to fabric. Interfacing is essentially a stabilizer. There are lots and lots of different kinds of interfacing.

There is fusible and sew-in interfacing, and there is woven and non-woven interfacing. There are lots of different weights of interfacing like heavyweight to featherweight. The weight of the interfacing should be matched to the weight of the fabric. The type of interfacing affects the fluidity, the drape, and the overall appearance of the garment.

Woven interfacing has a grainline that needs to match up with the grainline of the pattern pieces. Non-woven interfacing can be used in any direction.

Dark colored interfacing should be used with dark colored fabrics and light colored interfacing should be used with light colored fabrics. If you use dark interfacing with light fabric it can change the color and light interfacing can peak through dark fabric.

Types of Interfacing

Besides there being woven and non-woven interfacing and fusible and sew-in interfacing. There is also weft interfacing which is more often for heavier weight fabrics and garments. I like to use weft interfacing for coats and blazers.

There is fusible tricot interfacing which is very lightweight. It works for both knit fabric and woven fabrics.

You can also use fusible fleece to create quilting details on apparel. 

A specialty interfacing is horsehair which is used for tailoring. It creates beautiful stiff hems. It used to be actually made out of horse or goat hair but now it’s a man made material that creates those wavy hems.

In the picture below there are four pieces of non-stretch denim. The left one has no interfacing. The second one on the left has a heavyweight non-woven fusible interfacing. The second one on the right has medium weight fusible weft interfacing. The one on the right has fusible hair canvas interfacing.

WHAT IS FUSIBLE INTERFACING?

Fusible interfacing is interfacing that has lots of little glue dots all over one side. To activate the glue you need heat and stem. That’s why this interfacing is often called iron-on interfacing.

This interfacing doesn’t require any sewing to attach the interfacing. Fusible interfacing is doesn’t work for all fabrics. It doesn’t work for fabrics that are loosely woven, fabrics that can melt, fabrics that are too delicate, seersucker, and leather. 

Below is some crocheted lace that would not work with fusible interfacing.